How Do Color, Shape, + Size Affect Seed Germination?

Results: Seed Color/Shape Viability Test

By Ben Morris / Head Breeder, Dirty Bird Genetics

To test whether a seed’s size, color and/or shape influences its ability to germinate, we tested 50 seeds of various sizes, colors, and shapes. All seeds were placed in distilled water and separated into five solocup shot glasses based on their size, shape, and color. We germ-tested 10 seeds in each of the following five categories: Large-Dark, Small-Dark, Large-White, Small-White, and Dark-Odd Shaped (meaning not elliptic as most cannabis seeds are). All seeds were stored in their respective shot glasses, placed in a box together, and left in an environment with low to no light, minimal air flow, approximately 60% ambient relative humidity, and at a temperature of approximately 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds were observed on day 3, day 5, and day 8 to determine germination rates and progress.

Disclaimer: As a disclaimer, I would like to state that this was a preliminary test of seed viability with a very small population size. For conclusions that are statistically significant, more testing will need to occur with larger population sizes. This is by no means a definitive test of seed viability but rather a preliminary inquiry into this issue. This test was mainly to show that seeds with lighter colored to white seed coats, as well as abnormally shaped seeds, and smaller seeds can still be viable.

Day 1:

The 10 seeds of each category are laid out before being placed in germinating cups.

From Left to Right: Odd Shaped, Small-White, Large-White, Small-Dark, Large-Dark.

The 10 seeds of each category in the germinating cups as seen from above.


Day 3 Germination Results:

After 3 days the seeds were laid out on a background for observation of germination progress. The images below show the results found. The white seeds from both the small and the large categories turned a darker color after 3 days in the water in the cups, but these are the same seeds of those categories as shown in the first image of all the seeds in this study.

The Large-Dark seeds showed 8/10 seeds with the radicle exposed after 3 days.

The Small-Dark seeds showed 10/10 seeds with the radicle exposed after 3 days. The lesser amount of seed coat on the Small-Dark seeds may have allowed faster imbibition (taking up of water by the seed).

The Large-White seeds showed 7/10 with exposed radicles after 3 days.

The Small-White seeds showed 2/10 with exposed radicles after 3 days.

The Odd-Shaped seeds showed all 10/10 radicles exposed after 3 days. One seed appears to have 2 radicles coming from a single seed coat. This is most likely due to 2 zygotes forming within the plant ovary very shortly after pollination or due to 2 seeds fusing as they formed.


Day 5 Germination Results:

After another few days in the dark and in the distilled water the seeds were again taken out and observed. Below are images of the results on day 5 of this experiment.

All 10/10 Large-Dark seeds are now showing exposed radicles after 5 days.

  All 10/10 Small-Dark seeds continue to show exposed radicles after 5 days.

Large-White seeds are showing 7/10 exposed radicles after 5 days.   

Although difficult to see, 3/10 Small-White seeds are now showing exposed radicles after 5 days.

After 5 days, 10/10 Odd-Shaped seeds are still showing exposed radicles. One of the “twin” radicles broke off of one of the Odd-Shaped seeds. The first seed all the way to the left of the image does have an exposed radicle but its slightly darker color makes it difficult to see. Once zoomed in, anyone can see that a small, discolored radicle is exposed.


Day 8 Germination Results:

After 8 days total the seeds were observed for a final time to see the results pictured below.

After 8 days, 10/10 Large-Dark seeds show exposed radicles.       

     After 8 days 10/10 Small-Dark seeds show exposed radicles and 3/10 even show cotyledon.

After 8 days 7/10 Large-White seeds showed exposed radicles.   

       After 8 days 3/10 Small-White seeds showed exposed radicles.

All 10/10 Odd-Shaped seeds are still showing exposed radicles after 8 days.


RESULTS:

Preliminary Conclusion:

  • Many shapes, colors and sizes of seeds can be viable. 
  • Dark seeds have the best germination rates, regardless of whether they are small or large. 
  • White seeds are significantly more viable if they are larger. Small white seeds performed poorly in this germination test. 
  • Seed shape has no affect on viability. 
  • Using our germination method, seed viability was determined and unchanged by Day 5. 

Based on the limited results of this preliminary study, many shapes/colors/sizes of seeds can still be viable. They don’t all have to be large and dark colored although having a dark colored seed coat does seem to have a positive correlation with germination viability. It also seems that a larger seed may have a better chance of germinating as seen in the results between the Large-White and Small-White seeds with the Large-White having a 70% germination rate and the Small-White only having a 30% germination rate.  From the limited results of this simple experiment, it appears that seed shape didn’t affect germination rates with the Odd-Shaped seeds having 100% germination just like the seeds in the Large-Dark and Small-Dark categories.

One parameter not reflected in these results is the pressure with which you can apply to a seed to test viability. Lightly (very lightly) pinching a seed between your thumb and pointer finger and seeing if the seed deflates or pops can be a relatively reliable method of determining germination viability. Just a light pressure should give the kinetic feedback to know that the seed is “solid” and probably will germinate or will deflate/pop the seed and thus that seed was not viable. One thing many people seem to do is apply too much pressure to seeds when they check in this way. Again, light pressure is all that is required. One does not need to squeeze as hard as they can as this can give false results since enough pressure can pop any seed regardless of viability.

For more info on how we germinate, please see our Germination Guide here.


As Always, Happy Growing!

Germination Guide

A brief, simple step-by-step guide to the germination method proven most successful for our team through trial and error over the years.



The following is a guide on successful seed germination:


NOTE: Seeds purchased through North Atlantic Seed Co are intended to be souvenirs/collectibles ONLY. Please do not attempt to germinate seeds if you live in a state in which germination is illegal. NASC assumes no liability for what you do with your purchase after it's in your possession. 


Gather Materials:

  • Seeds
  • Disposable red solo cup shot glasses (or a small sterile cup of any kind)
  • Bottled water, room temperature
  • Disposable gloves or tweezers, optional
  • Shoe box, optional
  • Pots (solo cup sized or 4x4" square pots)
  • Medium of choice (Soil, coco coir, etc)

Germination Instructions:

  1. Fill the sterile, unused cup with room temperature bottled water. Drop the seeds into the cup, being careful not to contaminate the water with your fingers or anything else.
  2. Place the cup in a dark, temperate space. We recommend taking a shoe box, poking some holes in it, and setting the cup of seeds into the shoebox. Leave the seeds in a space that is warm but not hot (anywhere in the 70-80F range is great), if possible. Temperatures can affect germination dramatically. If it is too cold, germination rates go down. If it is too hot, not only is it a breeding ground for bacteria (so keep those fingers out of the water!), but it can negatively affect germination rates also.
  3. Leave the seeds in the water until the tap root is 1" long. Do not touch the water as the bacteria on your hands can quickly cause issues. We strongly suggest you do not try to pot the seeds until the tap root is 1/2" long at a minimum; your success rates will go up with a stronger tap root. Allow 7-10 days as every seed can germinate at different rates. Once you have a healthy taproot emerging, it is time to pot!

Potting Instructions:

  1. Fill a small pot with your medium of choice (for the sake of this tutorial, we will use soil as our medium). We use a 4x4" square pot. If you are planting auto seeds and are trying to avoid transplanting, you may want to use a peat pot, which will disintegrate when you eventually put it into a larger pot of soil. We don't recommend trying to pot seedlings into large pots unless you are experienced because it is very easy to overwater them in a large pot.
  2. Water the soil lightly where the seed will be placed. Do not soak the whole pot with water as the seedling will have no chance to suck all that water up and will likely rot and/or die. Airflow to the rootzone is critical.
  3. Poke a hole in the soil that is about 1.5" deep, give or take. This is where the seedling will be placed.
  4. Gently remove the seedling from the water with clean/gloved hands or tweezers, being cautious not to touch the taproot, if possible. Examine the seed and notice that the crack in the seed is V-shaped. If you look closely enough you may see where the first set of leaves will emerge from. Note this as it is important. Orient the seed in the soil so that the first leaves are facing upward.  If you can’t see the spot where the leaves will emerge, that is okay. They will emerge from the top of the "V" so the seed should be placed into the soil with that in mind, regardless of which way the taproot is shooting. The taproot will naturally go down once potted. Gently push the soil to cover the taproot and almost all of the seed. The very top of the seed should just barely be visible. It is okay to dust the top of it with soil, but it shouldn't be buried deep in there.
  5. Set the pot out of intense, direct light. A T5 would be about as strong as you’d want to go in these beginning days. Once the seedlings have popped up from the soil and are starting to grow up, put them under whatever grow light you intend to use. Keep a close eye on your water levels. They will suck up water quite slowly at first so be very careful not to overwater them, while also ensuring they don’t dry out entirely as they will shrivel up and die quite fast. At this stage, less water, more frequently is better, as a general rule of thumb.

Best of luck everyone, and Happy Growing!


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Disclaimer: Cannabis seeds are sold as souvenirs, and collectibles only. They contain 0% THC. It is imperative that you check your state and local laws before attempting to purchase seeds, and we are not liable for what you do with seeds after receiving them. The statements on this website and its products have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Consult your doctor before use. North Atlantic Seed Company assumes no legal responsibility for your actions once the product is in your possession and is not liable for any resulting issues, legal or otherwise, that may arise.