Sticky Finger Seeds is a Cannabis genetic collective that specializes (takes pride) in growing and breeding heirloom and landrace cannabis genetics. Now closing in on five decades of cannabis farming and breeding cannabis enthusiast Will Grinnell has been seeking, trading, purchasing and collecting a variety of the best cannabis genetics possible, along with the Sticky Finger Seeds collective of heritage craft farmers and their seed collections.
The NASC Cast Crew had the pleasure of sitting down with Will of Sticky Finger Seeds. Listen to what he has to say below, and follow us on Vimeo for even more content!
Reg or regular seed is seed produced with a natural male pollen donor and a natural female cannabis plant. Fem or Feminized seed is produced with a female pollen donor and a natural female cannabis plant.
Regular seed can produce male (XY) and female (XX) plants. Either laboratory testing or growing some seeds out and sexing them can help you identify if they are male or female. Males obviously make pollen which, when hitting a stigma, traveling through the style then into the ovary on a female plant, will cause the females to create seed. This can easily ruin a crop if a grower is going for seedless flower which makes identifying plant sex very important early in the growing process.
There is nothing wrong with regular seeds. They can still produce amazing plants as long as they’re tended to appropriately just like with plants from feminized seeds. The main difference is knowing you’ll have to pop more seeds to account for any males you may have to get rid of if you’re going for seedless flower. Many people prefer regular seeds over feminized seeds for many reasons. One such reason is to breed their own strains and to create their own seed for next year’s grow.
Feminized seeds produce 99.9% female seeds due to the pollen donor being female (XX). Since a female in these instances is made to create pollen there is no ‘Y’ chromosome to pass along thus no natural males should be able to form from the seeds produced. This results in almost all the seeds from a feminized pollen donor (XX) and a natural female cannabis plant (XX) being female. This can save much time by cutting out the need to sex plants when planning for your particular grow space and harvest goals. Feminized seeds are preferred by many people as well for many reasons. One big reason being the time and money saved on growing out many possible males and sexing or testing them before discarding them.
Both regular and feminized seed can lead to plants that show hermaphroditism (male and female sex organs/ anthers and pistils on the same plant) if not cared for properly or if poor parental choices were made by the breeder during seed creation. It is important to regularly check on your plants to monitor for unwanted anthers and remove them or the entire plant before they pollinate the other females in the grow space.
Regular Seed
Feminized Seed
50% chance of male or female plant
Can exhibit hermaphroditism
Can produce amazing plants with high yields
99.9% Chance of female plant
Can exhibit hermaphroditism
Can produce amazing plants with high yields
Photoperiod vs AutoFlower (Photo vs Auto)
Photoperiod plants, or “Photos,” are cannabis plants that require a change in the amount of light they receive to trigger flowering. Generally 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness will prompt photoperiod plants to create their sex organs (pistils/buds for female plants and anthers for male plants) and grow their flowers. This is often called “12/12” or “12/12 lighting.”
Auto-flowering plants do not require a change in light schedule to begin flowering and will do so after a certain number of days after being potted. This is due to the underlying genetics in auto-flower varieties that allow them to trigger flowering without any change in light schedule required. Auto-flower plants are not good candidates for cloning as they have a short window of time in vegetative growth before they start flowering out. This means any cuts taken from the ‘mother’ will still flower around the same time the mother would, making them poor choices for mother plants.
Some breeders have labeled particular strains as “Fast” or ‘Fast Flower.” This generally means the plant is still a photoperiod plant and will require a change in the amount of light/darkness it received to trigger flowering but that it will complete its flowering period much sooner than the average photoperiod plant.
Photoperiod
Auto-Flower
Requires change in light schedule to trigger flowering
Can be feminized or regular seed
Handles appropriate transplanting well.
Tolerance varies by strain
Good for cloning
Flowering triggered after a certain number of days regardless of light schedule
Can be feminized or regular seed
Does not handle transplanting very well
Bad for cloning
Regular and Feminized seeds can be either photoperiod or auto-flowering varieties
Examples:
A plant grown from a regular auto-flower seed would have a 50% chance of being male or female and would start flowering at a certain time after planting regardless of the amount of light it received.
A plant grown from a feminized auto-flower seed would have a 99.9% chance of being female and would start flowering at a certain time after planting regardless of the amount of light it received.
A plant grown from a regular photoperiod seed would have a 50% chance of being male or female and would require a change in the amount of light it receives to trigger flowering. (12 hrs light/12 hrs dark)
A plant grown from a feminized photoperiod seed would have a 99.9% chance of being female and would require a change in the amount of light it receives to trigger flowering (12 hrs light/12 hrs dark)
Mold and mildew negatively affect many kinds of wild and cultivated plants. Powdery mildew (PM) and Botrytis (Bud rot) are two of the most common fungi that damage and, sometimes, destroy cultivated crops.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is the collective term for several species of fungi that have similar presentation and cause similar negative health effects in plants. It usually presents as distinctive white, fuzzy or ‘powdery’ patches on any above ground part of the plant (stems, leaves, stalks, petioles, buds, etc.). Sometimes it can appear like little spots of “flour” on leaves or any other above-ground parts of the plant.
New shoots and lower/central leaves are commonly the initial sites of PM infection. Old leaves also have a high probability of getting initial PM infection due to their age and, most often, their position within the plant’s branches and other leaves.
Plants with a thick layer of leaf cover are also high risk for PM due to the density of plant material in a given volume which can cause a lack of proper air flow and create breeding grounds for powdery mildew deeper within the plant’s leaves and branches.
Often PM begins as a circular or oval patch that spreads quickly if not dealt with. If left untreated, PM will spread all over the plant and render the crop unfit for human consumption. PM can cause leaves to yellow and fall prematurely which negatively impacts the plant’s ability to photosynthesize the sugars it needs to live. If not dealt with quickly, PM can ruin whole crops as it spreads from plant to plant in your field, greenhouse, indoor facility/grow room, etc. which can take a serious emotional and financial toll on growers.
Powdery Mildew sites beginning near the center of a fan leaf. Note their circular shape and almost powdery appearance.
Another fan leaf showing powdery mildew sites, this time near the blade tips.
Botrytis/Bud Rot
Botrytis is another common pathogenic fungus found virtually everywhere plants are grown. Like Powdery mildew, Botrytis first appears as a white growth but quickly becomes brown or gray and can make buds and leaves appear “crispy” or over-dried. It can also sometimes make buds look webbed and slimy depending on the stage of infection. Botrytis is dangerous for humans and plant product containing this fungus should be considered toxic and unusable.
Botrytis can affect ANY part of the plant including the roots which makes it a very pervasive and difficult issue to treat. Botrytis will often affect new shoots as well as areas of the plant that do not get proper aeration such as dense buds or areas of high leaf coverage. Thick leaf layers and high relative humidities combined can make breeding grounds for this fungus just like they can for powdery mildew. Damaged plant stalks and leaves are also highly susceptible to PM and Botrytis infection. It is recommended to remove any petioles (leaf stems) still attached to stalks when defoliating plants during normal pruning. Petioles left over are highly susceptible to fungal infection and should be removed entirely from the plant if the leaf it was attached to is pruned.
Photo: Pong Pong/Shutterstock
White bud rot taking hold within the bud. Note the spider web-like texture.
Photo: Pong Pong/Shutterstock
A severely infected bud. Note the webbed texture and brown color of the bud rot. This bud will have to be removed before the infection spreads too far.
Photo: Pong Pong/Shutterstock
More exposed botrytis working its way up the young bud.
Photo: KilnKam/Shutterstock
Sometimes botrytis will make the bud look caky and dry. This bud will need to be removed from the area to prevent further spread of the mold to other plants.
Botrytis
Powdery Mildew
Dry or webbed texture
Begins white but quickly turns brown or gray
Affects ALL parts of plant (above and below ground)
Geometric pattern not similar across plants
Powdery or ‘flour’ like texture
White
Affects above ground parts of plant
Generally circular or ovoid (oval) patterning that spreads outward from center
Prevention & Treatment
It may sound obvious but the best way to protect your crop is to prevent mold outbreaks before they happen. Below are some tips on preventing powdery mildew and Botrytis in your grow space.
Discard all affected plant material outside of grow space ASAP
Destroy/Remove entire plant if mold infection is too wide spread
Change gloves or wash hands after removing affected plant material
Keep Plants Healthy
Avoid over or under feeding your plants as nutrient imbalances can cause serious stress which diminishes the plant’s ability to naturally fight off pests and fungal infections. When a plant is taking up the appropriate amount of nutrients and water, and when it produces healthy levels of sugars within itself, it is able to resist disease and infestation to a much higher degree, if not entirely. The healthier your plant is, the less work you have to do for a better yield.
Appropriate Light Penetration
Make sure your plants are getting good light penetration to decrease mold’s ability to infect lower bud sites, branches, and leaves. Mold does well in wet, dark conditions so increasing the light coverage on your plant will decrease mold’s ability to harm your crop. Be careful not to place your lights too close to the top of your plants or leaves as this can cause light burn which can stress the plant out.
There are various heights above the plant canopy that are optimal depending on type of light used (e.g. LED, MH, HPS, T5, etc.) and the technical specifications of any individual light. Keeping lights approximately 18 – 24 inches above your plant canopy is usually a safe bet but again consult the manual or manufacturer website for the unique specifications and any recommendations that may be found for the specific light(s) you’re using.
Air Flow:
It is critical to have proper air flow in your grow to prevent pockets of stale air and humidity from building up within the foliage or on stems or soil. In indoor grow spaces, wall and floor fans can be used to create air flow. Be cautious with the power setting and how close the fans are to the plants. The air movement is critical to preventing mold but too much force from air on the leaves will damage their structure and can lead to deformation and eventual premature death of the leaves.
Some indoor grow rooms and many commercial facilities also use HVAC systems to help recycle air in their grow space. These systems help to prevent accumulation of stale air, pathogens, mold spores, and excess humidity as well as introduce fresh air and CO2. If you can keep your grow area’s relative humidity below 60% (45% – 55% RH is optimal for flowering) you will greatly decrease the chances of mold outbreak. Many detrimental fungi and bacteria have a harder time establishing in an area that has less than 60% RH. Mold outbreaks can still occur at below 60% RH if grow area cleanliness is not maintained but will be less severe and will grow more slowly than at higher RH levels. Keeping a lower RH can help growers have more time to spot and treat any fungal infections that occur.
In grow tents, intake and outtake fans are usually employed to help keep fresh air recycling into the tent and stale air/excess moisture out of the tent. Small, clip-on fans can often be placed on tent poles to help with air motion if you find the air in the tent is still too thick, humid, or stationary. Again, be cautious at what setting you put the fan(s) at and how close it is to the foliage. Again a relative humidity of less than 60% is preferable to reduce the potential of fungal infection
If growing outdoors, make sure your crop is planted in an area that gets good wind flowing through it. Check on the foliage, stems, buds (if in flower) and surrounding soil daily, or as often as you can, to monitor those areas of your plants for white, gray, or brown spots forming. It’s also helpful to monitor for any pest damage/infestations and treat these appropriately as soon as possible.
Targeted Defoliation
Defoliation can improve air flow around your plant and can reduce the chance of mold outbreaks. It can also help the plant increase yields and potency by re-allocating energy from leaves that are older and/or may be shading out flower sites to flowers and newer leaves that are more efficient in photosynthesis (greener, more chlorophyll).
Defoliation requires some experience to get the hang of and must be approached with caution. Too much leaf removal can cause your plants stress which can harm yields and potency as well as lower the plant’s ability to fight off pests and fungal infections.
Defoliation is much more common in indoor grow spaces as leaves may not be receiving light evenly and thus some leaves may not contribute their maximum potential for photosynthesis. It still can sometimes be helpful when growing outdoors if your plant has a high leaf density that’s preventing good air flow but isn’t as big of a concern usually as it may be for the indoor grower.
Many small leaves on the underside of the plant and within the plant structure on lower branches can be removed to improve air flow while removing less efficient leaves. Be cautious not to defoliate too many leaves at once or in one day. It can be helpful to remove some leaves every 3-7 days during later stages of vegetative growth and/or within the first 3 weeks of the flowering phase. Try to not remove more than a total of 10-20% of a single plant’s foliage to avoid stressing it out.
ALWAYS USE CLEAN/STERILIZED TOOLS WHEN REMOVING LEAVES!
This fact cannot be stressed enough as dirty cutting tools (scissors, razor, scalpel,) can lead to greater chances of infection from bacteria, mold, and plant viruses/viroids. 70% isopropyl alcohol is recommended for sterilizing cutting tools against bacteria, but a 10% solution of bleach is recommended for sterilizing cutting tools against mold spores, plant viruses and viroids as isopropyl will not kill viroids.
Try to fully remove petioles (leaf stem) when defoliating to avoid creating sites that are optimal for fungal infection. We recommend removing the leaf, cut at the base of the petiole where it connects to the plant stalk. Try not to twist, rip, pull, or otherwise tear at the leaves as this can cause wounds in the stem and leave behind pieces of leaf and petiole debris that act as sites for initial fungal infection.
Check out our defoliation guide for more precise information regarding defoliation techniques.
Plan Healthy Crop Density
It is important not to plant or place individual plants too close to one another. Appropriate spacing in your tent, grow room, facility, or outdoor field improves air flow and decreases the chances of fungal infection. It also helps to avoid moisture/humidity build up within and between plants.
Before stocking your grow area, plan ahead to choose the number of plants and the desired size of those plants appropriate for the space you’ll be growing in. This will help prevent overcrowding and allow better air flow and light penetration to all of your plants.
Clean Grow Spaces in Between Harvests
Keeping your grow space clean and as plant debris free as you can is immensely helpful in preventing fungal infections. Clean floors, walls, and ceilings as well as any objects in the room in between harvests to eliminate any mold spores growing and keep new ones from gaining a foothold. There are many products that can be used to eliminate mold spores. A solution of 10% household bleach and 90% water is very effective in removing most mold spores. Distilled white or cleaning vinegar is also another easily obtainable option for cleaning grow spaces as it has a high acetic acid content which has antifungal properties. Vinegar is effective against many but not all types of mold spores.
If You Have PM or Bud Rot
Prune the affected parts of the plant if possible. If there is mold growth on leaves, remove the entire leaf and petiole (leaf stem) and put these gently into a plastic bag or other container. If removed with too much force you may inadvertently knock spores into the air which will travel to other parts of your plant or to other plants in the grow area. After you’re done removing affected leaves, quickly remove moldy leaf debris and throw away outside of the grow area, and outside of your home or facility if possible.
If mold is growing throughout a stalk or bud, removal of infected areas is necessary. A good rule of thumb is to prune a few inches below the infected site and remove all affected plant material.
There are some products available that are advertised as being able to clean finished bud from mold with little to no residual chemicals left in your flower after treatment. Due diligence to do your research on specific products that claim this is vital to ensure effective and non-toxic methods of cleaning bud if this is a strategy you wish to employ.
There are also many fungicides available commercially that work for vegging plants but many have potentially long lasting health effects so once again, do your research before introducing any new chemicals to your grow.
Neem Oil
A natural fungicide that has been used for many years is neem oil. Neem oil is a naturally occurring oil that comes from the seeds of the neem tree. Neem has been proven to have antifungal as well as anti-insecticidal properties and is not harmful to humans or pets. However, if you grow outdoors, be sure to not spray neem oil on plants bees may visit (flowers, vegetables, other pollen sources, etc.) as it can be harmful to them.
Copper Based Fungicides
Copper based fungicides are another non-systemic option for mold prevention and treatment. They are non-harmful to pets and humans and can be applied (if mixed in the appropriate ratio) without burning your cannabis plants. Copper based fungicides have shown great efficacy in killing mold spores and preventing their growth if applied correctly.
We do not recommend using any copper based fungicidal sprays outdoors as this can be harmful to earthworms and beneficial bacteria which are vital to soil health. However, if growing indoors without using living soil then copper fungicides can be a very effective treatment and preventative option for PM and botrytis. Copper fungicides are non-systemic and won’t harm your cannabis plants if applied in the appropriate ratios which can be found in the product manual that comes with the fungicide.
Baking Soda
Baking soda is another way to organically deal with powdery mildew and mold. Mix half a teaspoon of baking soda per quarter of a gallon of water, put this solution into a sprayer and spray the affected leaves and stems of your plant. Baking soda is another non-systemic fungicide which means it will potentially need to be re-applied if the issue reoccurs but it also means your plant won’t take it up within itself which is a very good thing when it comes time to enjoy your dried flower.
Do Your Research
No one wants to ingest fungicide when enjoying their bud so avoid using synthetic chemicals that are systemic and stay within the plant. Some fungicides won’t flush out after the normal flushing period at the end of flower so be careful not to employ these chemicals as they are largely for ornamental crops and lawns that are not intended for ingestion by humans or animals. Always read the labels and warnings with any new product you introduce to your grow to keep yourself, others, and the environment safe.
Fungicide/Defoliation Not Working
We do recommend removing and destroying heavily affected plants in situations where defoliation and/or pruning are unable to appropriately remove fungal infection sites. Sometimes the spread of mold and mildew is so vast over the plant’s surface that it is safer to remove the plant entirely before the issue spreads to the rest of the room. Be sure to wear gloves while removing infected areas of plants or while removing whole plants and throw those gloves away before touching clean surfaces or other plants. This practice will limit the spread of mold spores which can destroy your crop quickly. If gloves aren’t available, wash your hands thoroughly as soon as possible to avoid further spread of any fungi.
Make sure to increase the ventilation to the grow space to keep mold from coming back and establishing a foothold.
Fungus and mildew are huge concerns for any grower whether they are a home or commercial grower. If left untreated it can destroy whole crops by negatively affecting plant health, diminishing yields, and rendering infected, untreated plant material hazardous for human consumption. With proper environmental conditions and adherence to best growing practices you can avoid the catastrophe of diminished yields and the loss of an entire crop. Always be cautious if utilizing any fungicidal treatment. Always read the labels and warnings on the product and do your research before applying anything new to your grow room or garden. We hope this introductory guide has been helpful and that you enjoy many great, mold-free harvests in the seasons to come!
Do you want to grow cannabis in a simple and convenient way? The Annaboto growing system will provide you with an experience that is fun and fairly hands-off. Crystal discusses her second harvest with the Annaboto.
Back in November of 2025, I started my second grow journey with the Annaboto grow system. I still heavily recommend the Annaboto as an option for new growers or anyone that feels like they are too busy to grow. You can learn more about my experience with the process of setting up and using this machine here.
The strain I chose for this grow was Alchemist's Apprentice by Night Owl Seeds. She is made up of a cross between Wizard’s Apprentice *Foxy Purps* x Chem 91 F4 Auto. From germination to harvest, she grew like a champ. The process was smooth and nothing challenging arose during her lifespan.
Below, there are three pictures that show the first three weeks of growth. She started out as a healthy seedling and seemed to grow fairly rapidly into vegetation.
The next three images below are showing where she stands at week 5 and week 6. Some of her leaves have gotten really big. During week 6, I topped the plant in hopes that she would grow a little more outward and produce more flower. I cut the stem between the fifth and sixth nodes. At this point, she was a luscious green color and very healthy.
The first sign of the flowering stage occurred during week 8. She really opened up and topping definitely created more bud sites. I started to defoliate here and there to create more open space for the light to hit the buds, especially the ones toward the bottom of the plant.
Harvest happened during week 14. I was very pleased with the results as the buds looked extremely chunky and coated in white. She had decent internodal spacing and was somewhat compact, only being about a foot and a half tall. She just finished drying and I will be trimming her soon, followed by letting her cure for a few weeks. I am very excited to smoke this one!
This concludes my second grow journey with the Annaboto. It's reputation for being convenient and easy to use definitely remains.
Let's agree: the Dirty Bird Genetics family are nerds (in the most endearing way...obviously), so of course we would overthink things like pricing when it comes to assigning value to our genetics. Because we recently threw a new menu at you with the launch of our Alpha Series, we wanted to take a moment to explain where our heads are at when we are deciding which of the menu tiers a strain gets released into:
ALL STRAINS ARE:
Highly promising and exciting on multiple levels.
Tested by a lab for cannabinoids and terpenes
Grown out and tested indoors by yours truly.
Herm-free unless specifically noted in the profile (which would be tremendously rare).
VOLUME SERIES: Volume releases are reserved for the best of the best. What that means is very personal and it evolves with time as we learn and grow, and as our genetics become more and more refined. If a cultivar is released in the Volume series, then you know that strain is some of our best work to-date. We have a very high level of confidence in these genetics, and that standard only grows month-to-month and year-over-year. At present, a strain released into the Volume series meets the following criteria:
Test results for cannabinoids + terpenes came back very favorably.
Morphologically stable and vigorous - We are looking for homogeneity here and will always speak to phenotypic variation within the strain descriptions.
Expressed desirable traits such as well-proportioned internodal spacing and high calyx to leaf ratio.
Terpene profile is ON POINT - complex, pungent, in your face. We are big fans of unique terpene profiles.
Quality observed is consistently high-level in all of the seeds we tested.
Yield is moderate-to-high
Overall bag appeal and trichome coverage is high
ALPHA SERIES: The ALPHA Series is the newest addition to the Dirty Bird Genetics menu. As we’ve grown and evolved as breeders, our standards– like our genetics– have grown and evolved, too. We set a very high bar for our Volume series, and it’s a bar that is increasingly rising. Many of our favorite projects may miss that bar ever so slightly, for one silly reason or another, while still being truly phenomenal overall. The ALPHA Series is home to these genetics. It offers budget-friendly, high-end cultivars that go well above and beyond the genetics you can source at similar price points.
Alpha Series strains meet all of the same criteria as the Volume series, but one thing likely gave us pause. For example, the Apple Peelz (Sex Melon x Bad Apple) is one of our favorite boutique strains to-date, but 10 days into flowering we threw out two plants in the test run that had really serrated, arugula-like foliage (like the Brunch “arugula cut”) because we needed to save space. The project finished phenomenally, but because we weren’t able to see how that phenotype finished, we felt we couldn’t release it into the Volume series. This series will definitely be maximum bang for your buck!
TESTERS: Let me first say, it was probably unwise to name the Tester series, “Testers.” One might assume we haven’t grown these out when in fact we have. The Tester series is home to the projects that we see a lot of potential in and think people would enjoy, but that missed the mark in a meaningful-enough way that we cannot justify releasing it as an Alpha or a Volume release. This might include long internodal spacing, too much phenotypic variation, or foliage that is denser than we prefer. Many of these projects are good enough to continue breeding forward, or working into other projects. Testers are released at a price point that is super affordable for any grower, but the quality is good enough that we think even the connoisseurs would find loads of keepers here. Some of our favorite cuts ever have come from Tester series genetics.
Solfire Gardens, a Pacific Northwest seed company where passion meets biology, innovation intertwines with tradition, and selection creates the extraordinary. Their genesis dates back to 2015, when their founder, a dedicated University of Washington biology student from Seattle, decided to cultivate an institution out of his sheer fascination for pheno hunting and the world of seeds.
The NASC Cast Crew had the pleasure of sitting down with Sol of Solfire Gardens. Listen to what he has to say below, and follow us on Vimeo for even more content!
Twenty20 Mendocino has always taken the difficult path, the right path, the path less traveled. Their objective will never be to sell the most seeds, but to create the finest product. This is not a race and their goal isn’t to win; their goal is to stand the test of time and maintain pride and craftsmanship in everything they do. As sure as the sun will rise, they pledge to never release seeds to the public that have not been grown, tested, and approved by us. In a world of rapid-fire releases, social media hype and whimsical market demands, they promise to create our own path, march to the beat of their own drum, and always put quality over quantity.
The NASC Cast Crew had the pleasure of sitting down with Aaron of Twenty20 Mendocino. Listen to what he has to say below, and follow us on Vimeo for even more content!
To test whether a seed’s size, color and/or shape influences its ability to germinate, we tested 50 seeds of various sizes, colors, and shapes. All seeds were placed in distilled water and separated into five solocup shot glasses based on their size, shape, and color. We germ-tested 10 seeds in each of the following five categories: Large-Dark, Small-Dark, Large-White, Small-White, and Dark-Odd Shaped (meaning not elliptic as most cannabis seeds are). All seeds were stored in their respective shot glasses, placed in a box together, and left in an environment with low to no light, minimal air flow, approximately 60% ambient relative humidity, and at a temperature of approximately 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds were observed on day 3, day 5, and day 8 to determine germination rates and progress.
Disclaimer: As a disclaimer, I would like to state that this was a preliminary test of seed viability with a very small population size. For conclusions that are statistically significant, more testing will need to occur with larger population sizes. This is by no means a definitive test of seed viability but rather a preliminary inquiry into this issue. This test was mainly to show that seeds with lighter colored to white seed coats, as well as abnormally shaped seeds, and smaller seeds can still be viable.
Day 1:
The 10 seeds of each category are laid out before being placed in germinating cups.
From Left to Right: Odd Shaped, Small-White, Large-White, Small-Dark, Large-Dark.
The 10 seeds of each category in the germinating cups as seen from above.
Day 3 Germination Results:
After 3 days the seeds were laid out on a background for observation of germination progress. The images below show the results found. The white seeds from both the small and the large categories turned a darker color after 3 days in the water in the cups, but these are the same seeds of those categories as shown in the first image of all the seeds in this study.
The Large-Dark seeds showed 8/10 seeds with the radicle exposed after 3 days.
The Small-Dark seeds showed 10/10 seeds with the radicle exposed after 3 days. The lesser amount of seed coat on the Small-Dark seeds may have allowed faster imbibition (taking up of water by the seed).
The Large-White seeds showed 7/10 with exposed radicles after 3 days.
The Small-White seeds showed 2/10 with exposed radicles after 3 days.
The Odd-Shaped seeds showed all 10/10 radicles exposed after 3 days. One seed appears to have 2 radicles coming from a single seed coat. This is most likely due to 2 zygotes forming within the plant ovary very shortly after pollination or due to 2 seeds fusing as they formed.
Day 5 Germination Results:
After another few days in the dark and in the distilled water the seeds were again taken out and observed. Below are images of the results on day 5 of this experiment.
All 10/10 Large-Dark seeds are now showing exposed radicles after 5 days.
All 10/10 Small-Dark seeds continue to show exposed radicles after 5 days.
Large-White seeds are showing 7/10 exposed radicles after 5 days.
Although difficult to see, 3/10 Small-White seeds are now showing exposed radicles after 5 days.
After 5 days, 10/10 Odd-Shaped seeds are still showing exposed radicles. One of the “twin” radicles broke off of one of the Odd-Shaped seeds. The first seed all the way to the left of the image does have an exposed radicle but its slightly darker color makes it difficult to see. Once zoomed in, anyone can see that a small, discolored radicle is exposed.
Day 8 Germination Results:
After 8 days total the seeds were observed for a final time to see the results pictured below.
After 8 days, 10/10 Large-Dark seeds show exposed radicles.
After 8 days 10/10 Small-Dark seeds show exposed radicles and 3/10 even show cotyledon.
After 8 days 7/10 Large-White seeds showed exposed radicles.
After 8 days 3/10 Small-White seeds showed exposed radicles.
All 10/10 Odd-Shaped seeds are still showing exposed radicles after 8 days.
RESULTS:
Preliminary Conclusion:
Many shapes, colors and sizes of seeds can be viable.
Dark seeds have the best germination rates, regardless of whether they are small or large.
White seeds are significantly more viable if they are larger. Small white seeds performed poorly in this germination test.
Seed shape has no affect on viability.
Using our germination method, seed viability was determined and unchanged by Day 5.
Based on the limited results of this preliminary study, many shapes/colors/sizes of seeds can still be viable. They don’t all have to be large and dark colored although having a dark colored seed coat does seem to have a positive correlation with germination viability. It also seems that a larger seed may have a better chance of germinating as seen in the results between the Large-White and Small-White seeds with the Large-White having a 70% germination rate and the Small-White only having a 30% germination rate. From the limited results of this simple experiment, it appears that seed shape didn’t affect germination rates with the Odd-Shaped seeds having 100% germination just like the seeds in the Large-Dark and Small-Dark categories.
One parameter not reflected in these results is the pressure with which you can apply to a seed to test viability. Lightly (very lightly) pinching a seed between your thumb and pointer finger and seeing if the seed deflates or pops can be a relatively reliable method of determining germination viability. Just a light pressure should give the kinetic feedback to know that the seed is “solid” and probably will germinate or will deflate/pop the seed and thus that seed was not viable. One thing many people seem to do is apply too much pressure to seeds when they check in this way. Again, light pressure is all that is required. One does not need to squeeze as hard as they can as this can give false results since enough pressure can pop any seed regardless of viability.
For more info on how we germinate, please see our Germination Guidehere.
In House Genetics specializes in micro-breeding cannabis seeds, offering a variety of high-quality strains that cater to all types of growers, including those looking for outdoor cannabis seeds. With new strains released every month, In House Genetics consistently leads the way in innovative crossbreeds and exclusive limited runs. The team’s years of experience and in-depth knowledge of genetics have allowed them to produce some of the most potent and sought-after seeds in the industry. Passionate about their craft, they continue to push the boundaries of cannabis research and development, securing their position at the forefront of the cannabis seed industry.
In 2025, In House Genetics dropped some new strains like Electracane, Purple Rush, Dripzilla, Midnight Zushi, Jamz, and many more! They offered a variety of freebies and constant discounts as well! Below, you'll find the top five strains by In House Genetics at NASC.
JELLY BREATH S1
Jelly Breath S1 is a hybrid strain that is a producer of very dense frosty flowers ranging from grape to cookie flavors.
BANANACANE
Bananacane grows vigorous, resinous heavy buds. Her aroma and flavor profile include ripe banana, berry/sherbet, caramel and earth. This strong indica-leaner can cause sedation and is excellent for sleep. She is a great option for extracts, too!
SUGAR CANE
Sugar Cane is an absolute eye-stopper. She is a mood-booster that will help you focus. You can expect a flavor and aroma profile of sweetness with floral and grape notes.
SLURRICANE #7 S1
The buds of Slurricane #7 S1 become large and resinous. She brings on heavy, sedative effects. You can expect a profile of loud, grape gas with creamy undertones.
PLATINUM KUSH BREATH REMIX
Both of the parental strains of Platinum Kush Breath Remix are very heavy duty so this is not one for the inexperienced smokers out there. She has a lovely, pure-gassy flavour and aroma which will have all the Kush lovers out there going crazy.
Changing the ethos of cannabis, with commercial boutique innovations, game-changing genetics, mind-opening insights and the best possible products, Ethos uses science and data to apply the best practices, make the most effective combinations and produce winners time and again. Offering the most elite, most efficient cultivars – from F1s to IBLs and Alpha Fems to autoflowers – Ethos Genetics, founded by Colin Gordon, is based in Colorado, USA. Colin and his team work to produce quality in their products as well as their contributions to the greater community. ETHOS is raising expectations.
Mandarin Cookies V2 grows like a champion and can put out very colorful and flavorful flowers. The V2 version has added even more citrus along with the always-welcome gasoline by moving away from the Forum Cut into a much chunkier, OG-Kush-heavy version named Ethos Cookie #12.
PLANET OF THE GRAPES RBX
Planet of the Grapes is made to produce and is extremely high in both cannabinoid and terpene percentages. Heavy flower yields are easy to get on this low-maintenance, medium-height, strong, lateral plant. She tests and extracts huge in usable oils! Her aroma is only outdone by her flavor: sharp grapes, sweet citrus and the signature musky, greasy flavor of Chem D. Acrid aromas like propane and "hooch" accompany the more citrusy pheno. You can expect intense, heavy, classic “Indica” effects.
CHERRY GAR-SEE-YA R1
This is not your typical compact, leafy cherry variety. Cherry Gar-See-Ya R1 stacks chunky, baseball-sized nugs from top to bottom. She is easily trained, beginner friendly, and loves growing outdoors
10TH PLANET R1
10TH Planet R1 leans to the heavy side, with intense, classic “hybrid” effects. Journey into an otherworldly blend of grape, citrus, gasoline and thick, skunky spice. Chunky, large and dense flowers give phenomenal yields in any system or space.
CRESCENDO RBX1
Crescendo RBx1 is medium-tall with some stretch. Sour, gassy and citrus flowers are crushingly strong! She is beginner friendly and is a high yielder!
Before their seed bank was created in 2007, RQS had long-time knowledge and passion for cannabis breeding. Following enormous interest in their strains, they opened our first shop in Amsterdam, the Damstraat location, in 2010. In 2011, they launched the Royal Queen Seeds website. In 2016, they welcomed first clients to their shop at Carrer dels Tallers in Barcelona, Spain. In 2022, they opened their newest location in Bangkok, Thailand. In 2023, they started operating in the United States and launched the first true F1 Hybrid Cannabis seeds in the market! Today, RQS operates in the US and in 28 countries in Europe and offers 100+ high-quality strains, growing equipment, growing advice, knowledge, tips and more!
In 2025, Royal Queen Seeds dropped some new strains like Sticky Queen, Sticky Queen Auto, Mexican Rush, and Mexican Rush Auto. They offered freebies and BOGOS as well! Below, you'll find the top five strains by Royal Queen Seeds at NASC.
SPECIAL QUEEN #1 AUTO
Special Queen #1 Auto offers tantalising flavors and a deeply stoning experience. Perfect for quiet evenings, this cultivar will melt your body into the couch while keeping your mind alert and switched on. You can expect a bountiful yield in a matter of weeks.
NORTHERN LIGHT (F)
Northern Light has been the basis for many of the award-winning classics in the history of cannabis. It is simply one of those knockout smokes that guarantees a couchlock session for the next few minutes. The Afghan heritage really shines through in the smoke and anyone looking for that strong stone need seek no further than this beautiful strain.
SPECIAL KUSH #1 (F)
Special Kush #1 likes to grow wild as if in the mountains of Afghanistan; this means it will fill up any space it can. Indoors, care should be taken that it doesn’t overgrow its space, but given enough space, like outdoors, it can grow to over 3 meters tall. The smoke carries a very hash-like taste with a full body stone present from its Indica background.
NORTHERN LIGHT AUTO
Northern Light Auto is a versatile strain that is as perfect for discreet indoor growers as it is for high-volume, home-growers outdoors. After a brief vegetative phase, this strain begins producing an abundance of flowers, finishing its entire life cycle in 10–12 weeks after planting the seed. She provides a generous harvest and might be one of the highest-yielding autoflowering strains available.
SPECIAL QUEEN #1 (F)
Perfect for a first-time grower who doesn't want to invest too much in his experimental growing, this Special Queen is a classic skunk that grows with ease, doesn't stretch too much and can be harvested in 8-9 weeks. The smoke is that of a classic skunk stone. It is mostly mental and provides smokers with an uplifting high that will relax even the most anxious stoners.
Do you want to grow cannabis in a simple and convenient way? The Annaboto growing system will provide you with an experience that is fun and fairly hands-off. Crystal discusses her experience and first harvest with the Annaboto.
One of my recent harvests was the conclusion of my first time using the Annaboto, an autoflower growing system that pretty much does all of the work for you. Besides being a sweet Christmas gift, I felt that, as a very new and inexperienced grower, the Annaboto would serve a great purpose in my journey of learning and growing. Not to mention, it would keep the hope alive if my other growing attempts in soil were unsuccessful. The technology was impressive and the whole process went smoothly, allowing me ample time to observe my plant as it grew.
The strain I grew was Bubble Kush Auto by Royal Queen Seeds. I germinated the seed in a cup of water before planting it in the required pod. To start the process, I had to download the Annaboto phone application and connect the machine to WiFi. Once completed, the app will guide you through the setup of the machine.
I had to put the nutrient cartridge, which resembles an oversized video game cartridge from the early 90s, into the machine, along with filling one side of the machine’s base with water. The app also lets you choose the time frame of the 18hrs on/6hr s off light schedule. The machine has a button in the front that flashes different colors to indicate if it needs water or a cycle of nutrients. Overall, setting things up was fairly easy.
The beginning stages of this grow-journey were extremely fun to watch. The seedling responded very quickly to the light and it started growing rapidly. At one point, the leaves were too heavy for the stem, but it eventually balanced itself. At the end of week 5, I topped the plant by cutting the stem between the fifth and sixth nodes. Topping allows the plant to grow outward, which creates more bud sites and bigger yields.
Things got even more exciting once she started to flower around the end of week 6. Tiny bud sites morphed into small buds that turned into chunky, crystalized nuggets. The app gives you an estimated date range of when to harvest. I harvested at the end of week 13, a little over three months from when she started. The app will give you instructions on ending the grow with the machine, which includes draining water to the disposable bucket (part of the machine that you can detach) and disposing of the nutrient cartridge and seed pod. Once the nutrient cartridge and seed pod are replaced and you have a new seed, another grow journey can be started.
After drying, trimming, and curing for a couple of weeks, the Bubble Kush plant produced 3 ounces and 1 gram of flower. The ease of this machine is pretty amazing and I was really only responsible for making sure it had water and one nutrient cycle per week. Overall, the Annaboto is a great option if you’re new to it or if you don’t have a lot of time to dedicate to growing.
A thought provoking journey to a half baked moon and back, Mezzaluna is sure to test your limits - enjoy these insider insights from a high flying Crystal!
One of my favorite things about consuming cannabis is finding that strain that can be considered pure magic. Mezzaluna, a new strain by Dirty Bird Genetics, definitely checks all of my boxes.
I consume cannabis for various reasons, but my favorite place to get to is one of calmness and happiness. Mezzaluna made me feel relaxed and alert, but also happy, goofy, and kind of motivated with curiosity. The goofy part of the high was more like a cerebral trance and I could tell some of my senses were being impacted. I enjoyed listening to music with Mezzaluna because it allowed me to audibly highlight any instrument at any point in a song. The level of creative and thought-provoking energy that Mezzaluna brings could lead to some really fun activities. However, beware of the activity because I almost fell into a social media doom-scrolling black hole.
Besides that fun ride, Mezzaluna also has other charming qualities. After grinding the buds up, the aroma took me back to childhood and heavy consumption of sour candy. The taste on the exhale was a combo of fermented berries, earth, and gas.
I also found some potential symbolism with the name and my experience. Mezzaluna means half moon in Italian, which according to Google, a half moon represents balance and reflection. I think that falls in line with my experience of it being balanced and thought-provoking.
She is also an extremely beautiful plant. Whenever I see a plant that has frosted buds with some pops of that burgundy-wine color, I know I am about to be served a sweet terp-salad.
If you get the chance, you definitely want to go on a journey with Mezzaluna (Fem Photoperiod)!
The team at North Atlantic Seed Co is excited to introduce the NASC Breeder Spotlight Series, a video-recorded series that will air on the North Atlantic Seed YouTube and on our new NASC Blog page! After getting our toes wet interviewing Beth and Ben at Dirty Bird Genetics, we have chosen to embark on this new venture to give our customers an intimate and in depth introduction to the breeders that we all grow and love.
Please enjoy this interview with the Dirty Bird Genetics crew, and stay tuned for the upcoming episode featuring Mr Soul from Brother’s Grimm, whose legacy and staying power in the cannabis genetics industry speaks for itself.
Disclaimer: Cannabis seeds are sold as souvenirs, and collectibles only. They contain 0% THC. It is imperative that you check your state and local laws before attempting to purchase seeds, and we are not liable for what you do with seeds after receiving them. The statements on this website and its products have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Consult your doctor before use. North Atlantic Seed Company assumes no legal responsibility for your actions once the product is in your possession and is not liable for any resulting issues, legal or otherwise, that may arise.
5 Corner Kush (F)-10%$90.00
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![Mezzaluna (F) [TESTER]](https://www.northatlanticseed.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/mezzaluna-cannabis-seeds-by-dirty-bird-genetics1-800x800.webp)
